Hello All!
Wow...April is quickly coming to a close and summer is soon to be upon us. At MVH Health & Fitness Academy we have a fun event to assist you in preparing for your summer activities and adding more movement into your lifestyle. Prepare to be Amazed and join our Sloth-A-Thon, where you get to play with triathlon events and have 30 days to complete the distances. For more details call HFA @ 557-2823.
Whether you want to participate in our bike event or just prepare for summer biking, we would like to share an article from REI.com that will give some great tips on how to fit a bike or your bike to you. Proper fit will assist in a more pleasant biking experience, not to mention unnecessary ouchies from improper body mechanics. Thank-you REI for this great information!
Bike Fitting
Basics
A bike that fits well and is right
for your height, flexibility and riding style is a bike you’ll love riding. A
bike that fits poorly can lead to inefficient riding, muscle aches and pains,
and general discomfort that might discourage you from riding as long or as far
as you want.
Hands-on help: Whether you’re shopping for a brand-new bike,
adjusting a used bike or just checking to make sure your fit is perfect on your
current bike, a skilled bike tech or sales associate can help you. We recommend
you head to your local REI or bike store to get personalized fit
recommendations.
General Bike Sizing Tips
General Bike Sizing Tips
While there are some basic fit
considerations for any bike you’ll buy, bike sizing can become quite intricate
if you are a serious rider looking for specific performance characteristics.
This article focuses on entry-level fit considerations.
Your bike should fit how you
currently ride. You may aspire to match that
low, long, aerodynamic position of the pros, but it’s important to set the bike
up to match your current abilities. As you work on strength, flexibility and
endurance, you can readjust your fit later.
Fine-tuning the fit. First, identify your overall bike frame size. If you don’t
have the right frame from the outset, you’ll have difficulty getting it
comfortable no matter what adjustments you make later. Some adjustments can be
made easily with the bike’s existing components (seat height, angle, etc.) and
some may require swapping out a component (e.g., a new stem can change the
location of the handlebars for a more comfortable riding position).
A note about cleat fit: Though not discussed in the basic fit here, be aware that
the placement of cleats on your bike shoes can also impact fit. Set too far
forward, they can cause knee pain, Achilles discomfort, numbness or hotspots.
Too far back and you won’t be getting the optimal power transfer from your
muscles to the bike. Talk to a bike fitter to make sure your cleats are
positioned correctly.
How Bikes are Sized
Different types of bikes are sized
differently and will have slightly different fits:
Road bikes can come in both standard (S, M, L) sizes and numerical sizes. The same size across different brands can fit very differently and the number may not correlate to a common measurement. You might ride a size 54 Cannondale road bike, but a size 54 Diamondback road bike may feel quite different.
Mountain bikes come in standard sizes (S, M, L) and are generally similar across brands. For example, if you like your size small GHOST mountain bike, it’s likely (but not definite), that you’ll want a small in other brands as well.
Hybrid bikes, unsurprisingly, are a mix of the two, with more forgiving sizing than elite road bikes, but not quite as flexible as the sizing of most mountain bikes.
Road bikes can come in both standard (S, M, L) sizes and numerical sizes. The same size across different brands can fit very differently and the number may not correlate to a common measurement. You might ride a size 54 Cannondale road bike, but a size 54 Diamondback road bike may feel quite different.
Mountain bikes come in standard sizes (S, M, L) and are generally similar across brands. For example, if you like your size small GHOST mountain bike, it’s likely (but not definite), that you’ll want a small in other brands as well.
Hybrid bikes, unsurprisingly, are a mix of the two, with more forgiving sizing than elite road bikes, but not quite as flexible as the sizing of most mountain bikes.
First, make sure you can straddle
your bike with your feet flat on the floor. Be sure to wear your cycling shoes
when evaluating standover height, since they add to your overall leg length.
Road bikes: If the bike has a traditional straight top tube that is
parallel to the ground, you should have approximately 1" of clearance
between the ground and tires when you lift the bike as you’re straddling it.
If the bike has a sloping top tube
(semi-compact or compact design) expect to have clearance of 2" or more.
Both men’s and women’s bikes can have compact frames.
Mountain bikes: When you lift the bike, you want 2" minimum
clearance between the tires and the ground. If your bike has full suspension,
it’s okay to have less initial clearance (1"–2") because the
suspension compresses under your weight once you sit on the bike. That said,
the amount of clearance is largely affected by the slope of the top tube down
toward the rear wheel. For example, if the slope is dramatic, you'll likely
have ample clearance no matter what size the frame is. Because of this, you
can't rely solely on standover clearance to determine if a bike fits.
Hybrid bikes: If your hybrid bike is a city commuter, use the road bike
guidelines. If it’s a beach cruiser or a step-through style, you don’t really
have to worry about standover height. Most of these have steeply sloping top
tubes that let you step over easily and put your feet flat on the ground when
seated.
Bike Standover Height: Online Shopping Tips
REI and most bike brand websites
include sizing charts for bikes featured online. Look for listed standover
heights, and compare that number to your inseam. The difference between your
inseam and the standover height should fall within the target ranges. (For
example, if you have a 30” inseam, you’ll want a road bike with a 29” standover
height.)
To measure your inseam: Gather a large hardcover book or notebook, tape measure and
pencil. Then:
- Stand against a wall (with bike shoes on).
- Straddle the book, spine up, as if you were sitting on
a saddle.
- Use the pencil to mark where the spine of the book
meets the wall.
- Measure from the mark to the floor. This is your
inseam.
- Repeat the measurement another time or two to make sure
it’s accurate.
For a bike to fit well, simply
knowing your standover height may not be enough to ensure a great fit. A good
second piece of data is the effective top tube (ETT) length.
ETT describes the horizontal
distance between the head tube and the seat tube, regardless of whether you
have a straight top tube or one that slopes. Having a bike with the correct ETT
will help set you up to fine-tune your upper body position with smaller
adjustments later.
Assessing Your Upper Body Position
Have a sales associate or bike tech
assess your body position on your chosen bike.
Proper position: Aim for a riding position that gives you a modest
amount of shock-absorbing bend in your arms without forcing you to reach too
far to apply the brakes. If it feels as though you could comfortably play piano
keys on your handlebar, your arms are in a good position.
For road bikes, your torso will form a 45-degree angle with your hips,
and a 90-degree angle with your arms. If you have tight hamstrings or short arms,
you can swap out the stem to bring the handlebar closer and keep the strain off
your back and shoulders.
For mountain and hybrid bikes, these exact angles are not as critical since the riding positions are often more upright and relaxed. With mountain bikes especially, more time is spent out of the saddle, so dialing in the perfect seated pedaling position isn’t as crucial.
For mountain and hybrid bikes, these exact angles are not as critical since the riding positions are often more upright and relaxed. With mountain bikes especially, more time is spent out of the saddle, so dialing in the perfect seated pedaling position isn’t as crucial.
With your seat height and position
dialed in, you have the best chance of pedaling efficiently and powerfully
using your major leg muscles.
To check your seat position, ask a
sales associate or friend to hold the bike upright while you hop on the saddle.
Proper position: With your foot at the bottom of the pedal stroke, you
should see a slight bend in the leg, reaching about 80-90 percent of full leg
extension. This is true for road, mountain and hybrid bikes. (If you expect to
progress quickly on your mountain bike, you may also want to look for bikes
with height-adjustable seatposts. These bikes let you raise or lower the seat
by pushing a button, helping you adjust instantly to changing terrain.)
Adjusting the seat height: Loosen the quick-release lever on the seatpost (or use
a wrench if there’s a binder bolt) and raise or lower the post as needed. Be
careful not to raise the post beyond the "minimum insertion mark"
etched into its side. (If you need to change the seat height that dramatically,
you may need a different frame size.)
Retighten the quick-release lever or
binder bolt before riding. (Be careful not to overtighten the binder bolt. Use
a torque wrench to tighten the bolt to the manufacturer's specification, or
have a mechanic tighten this properly. Be especially careful with a
carbon-fiber frame and/or seatpost.)
Proper position: When your right foot is at the 3 o’clock position of
the pedal stroke, your knee should be aligned over your forefoot. A plumb line
dropped from the bottom of your kneecap should fall straight to the ball of
your foot and through the center of the pedal. In this position, your shin will
be tilted forward slightly.
Adjusting the fore/aft position: Make adjustments by loosening the saddle binder bolt
(sometimes called the seat fixing bolt) and sliding the saddle forward or
backward as needed. This generally applies to road, mountain and hybrid bikes,
but remember, this is just a starting point. As you become more experienced you
may find you like to position your saddle a little differently.
Now check your saddle tilt.
With few exceptions, the saddle should be parallel to the ground. To make
saddle tilt adjustments, simply loosen the saddle binder bolt (or bolts) at the
top of your seatpost (directly underneath your saddle) and adjust as needed.
(Note: The saddle binder
bolt is different from the seatpost binder bolt.) Retighten
the saddle bolt(s) before riding.
Women often have proportionately
narrower shoulders and longer legs compared to their torsos than men, and
women-specific bikes are designed to meet these needs. Women’s bikes often have
narrower handlebars and shorter or more compact frame dimensions. Some women
find that men’s bikes fit well and are comfortable, but women-specific bikes
may provide a more precise fit for some.
If you’re buying a bike for a
beginning rider, it’s easy to want one they’ll “grow into,” but it’s especially
important to buy a bike that fits well so they can ride comfortably and
confidently while they learn.
Standover height: As with adult bikes, first check the standover height.
Whatever the top-tube style, look for about 2"–4" of clearance.
Seat height: Most kids’ bikes are designed so they ride in a more
upright position. They should be able to sit comfortably, see around them
easily and grip the handlebars with a slight bend in their elbows. Their legs
should be slightly bent at the bottom of the pedal stroke.
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